FIRST TIME HERE??

FIRST TIME HERE?? Start with the INTRO!

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Lets get you guys caught up

A heads up, this blog is being posted from Greece(we just got in and finally have internet), was written on the ferry from Venice and is about Munich.

Wow! What a great few days in Munich. The moment we got to our hostel around 10pm, sat down and had a beer, we joked about staying longer if we were having fun. And that's exactly what we did.

So let's talk about Munich. A beautiful historic city kept that way because of the people. The people here do not like change (remind you of someone), so much so that before ww2 they took pictures of all the buildings so that after all the damage they would be able to rebuild exactly the same way. You can still see some buildings not badly damaged just have the old design painted over like a movie set. A far change from Berlin who has decided to go modern in every respect. There is one more interesting difference between Berlin and Munich, but i'll get to that later.

The other thing they love is beer. Munich arguably has he best beer in the world. Sadly to the rest of the world they do not export any of it. Oh, except the current Pope who is from here. Vatican City is the only place in the world the beer is shipped. He says that because it is his favorite beer, it is also God's favorite beer. Go figure.

On our first full day, we did a walking tour as we do in every city and learned a ton including some of the interesting facts I shared with you already. On a more serious topic, we learned about how Hitler and the Nazi party began here. Due to hyper inflation and unemployment, Germany was in shambles after ww1 and extreme political parties began to combat the situation. Hitler quickly rose in the ranks in the Nazi party and failed in his first big demonstration here when he attempted to kidnap 3 high government officials and tried to get them to join the Nazis. This failure led to him being sent to jail where he infamously wrote his novel and only served 11 months of a 5 year sentence from a trial that was a joke in the first place because the judges were Nazi sympathizers. Then we learned that other interesting difference between Berlin and Munich I hinted at earlier. Berlin's monuments and memorials to ww2 and the holocaust are designed in a way that smacks you in the face and says, "Hey, look at me! Don't forget this happened!" Munich on the other hand takes a much more subtle approach. For instance, we were on the tour and began walking on a side road with golden cobble stones in a distinct path. The guide soon stopped and began telling us the story of how there was a spot around the corner where when you walked past it, you had to give the Nazi salute. There was a soldier stationed there so if you didn't, he would beat you. The disgruntled and brave anti-Nazi citizens through protest would puposefully take a different route so they didn't pass this area. Although the Nazis caught on eventually, the golden path lays here today in rememberance. And as I said before, with Munich's different style, this path is not marked or explained anywhere. Their reasoning behind their style is that it forces people to notice these sights and look it up later or ask someone on their own and therefore will remember it better. I've gone back and forth on which style is better and although I personally think there could be a happy medium between the two, both get the job done. On an individual level, we all remember and grieve losses in our own way but as long as the end result is the same, countries, and in this case cities, can do the same. Boom! Knowledge bomb.

That night our hostel was hosting a beer tour. We joined, along with our new friend, Kevin, who we befriended on the tour earlier. Quick note about Kevin, he is currently traveling across the globe on his way home from his job... on Antartica.

The tour was so much fun. Steve met his lost brother. He was our guide who being a Canadian and hockey fan was also called by his friends, The Bear. As he began the tour he tempted us all by offering a free mug to the person in the group that takes part in everything and helps the group as a whole have fun. Greg and I met eyes and called it, our one and only Bear, Steve, won and is now lugging around a 1 liter beer mug. A true testiment to Steve being the winner, we walked into the hostel 2 days later and all of a sudden we hear one of the guides from the tour go,"The Bear" as Steve walked by. Local Munich celebrity we got here.

The next day we did one thing you have to do when in Munich, and that is going to the concentration camp, Dachau. Needless to say it was a heavy experience. I have been to holocaust and ww2 museums all over the world but to physically be walking around the same grounds was something new. I liked how our tour guide said the word 'imagine' is an understatment because you can never fully imagine what it was like.

That night after a nap we went to a beer garden for dinner. Beer gardens have the coolest concept. On the same property of a brewery or kennel that holds loads of beer, put a restaurant filled with long tables and hearty food and just let people enjoy. We were sat at a table with a family and were soon greeted by what would become one of my favorite waiters of all time. After asking for english menus he knew we were American and soon after sat 3 girls at our table. "English( pointed to us), english( pointed to he girls), sit sit."

We eventually got to talking and after our 1-liter beers and delicious half chicken with potato salad dinners the group friendship was born. The girls( ugly of course compared to our lovely girlfriends, haha) were studying abroad in Germany for the semester from Union College in New York. The dinner was made better by a great waiter who joked with us and made fun of Greg and I when we only got half liters. After dinner we invited the girls back to our hostel to help us get rid of some free beers we had left over from the beer tour the previous night. Now before you all get suspicious, it should be made aware that throught the course of conversation we all talked about our girlfriends and how awesome they are. We even agreed on our way back that they were only staying for one drink and we were not gonna walk them home, perfect. A fun night ended with us watching episodes of Modern Family on Greg's ipad. Great show.

The next day we went to Olympic Park where the infamous 1972 games were held where terrorists kidnapped and killed the Israeli athletes. Although we did not learn much more in our visit we talked about the movie Munich and the Israeli retaliation. We spent a lot of time in front of a pond playing hackey sack. We got 3 hacks in a row!

That night we were headed to the English Gardens( park with outdoor beer garden that is also home to the famous Chinese Tower). But the forecast called for rain. Instead we went back to the same beer garden as the previous night and met up with the same girls who brought the other 5 girls in their group. It was another fun night made special by a tubba and trumpit player playing the national anthem, because they knew we were American, and we saw our great waiter from the night before. When he and Greg made eye contact, Greg jokingly pointed to the girls then gave him a thumbs up and he loved it. He later came over and laughed about it. He even at one point shooed(sp?) away a guy we were talking to because he thought he was hitting on the girls. Little did he know nothing romantic would come of his accidental match making but the moment was hilarious. After dinner we went and crashed at our hotel for the night.

On our final day, we relaxed for a while and we booked the rest of our hostels. Crazy right? Then as the weather cleared up we walked to the English Gardens, had one more German beer and a snack before getting ready for the night train.

We are now on a boat from Venice to Greece and because of our extension in Munich, a day later then we originally planned. But that's the beauty of this trip. We made it and can change it whenever we want.

We spent a perfect 7ish hours in Venice. The night train here was crappy. Very uncomfortable chairs made it a rough sleep. But we hit a 2nd wind getting to a new city. Took a boat( which is their metro) to San Marco Square and walked back seeing all the major sights. We agreed," we'll come back to Venice one day with our wives."

Leaving Venice by boat was a wonderful experience. I know Steve will be mentioning it too and it's funny because we were both on different parts of the ship at the time. My feeling was a mix between Jack from Titanic's " I'm the king of the world" and Lou Gehrig's "Today, I consider myself the luckiest man on the face of the Earth." I realize how fortunate I am to to be on this adventure. Not many people have the time or money etc to do this and I appreciate all of this so much.

We just got into Piraeus, Greece and have spent the last 45 minutes calling home as we hadn't talked to anyone for 2 days. The ferry from Venice was an experience. As we got on we saw people claiming floor spots and chairs like it was America in the 1800s claiming land in the mid-west. Sleeping bags and coolers came out as to mark their territory. We were able to snag chairs and slept on the floor with the seat cushions from the chair as a mattress with a short over my eyes because the lights wouldn't turn off. But now we are in our hotel, taking warm showers and each have a bed. Happy days.

Okay, there ya have it. Hope all is well with all of you.

Dave

IM ON A BOAT!!

We have just pulled out of the port of Venice on a Greek cruise boat headed for patras Greece. It has been a long day of traveling to get to Venice (via a night train from Munich) and we still have 27 hours on this boat with no room or bed. But among all this traveling, 30 minutes of watching the floating city go by has truly allowed the gravity and wonder of this trip to set in for me. It is truly unbelievable to be sailing along the Italian coast towards Greece and I am so thankful to have this opportunity. But enough of that, on to other things.

I know Dave will update soon with a thorough report on Munich, so just a few thoughts from me. It is truly my kind of place. Most people reading this know I am a fan of good beer and good food, and they do both better than anyone in the world there. All over the city there are beer halls and biergartens (beer gardens) with large wooden picnic tables. At any of these you can get a great Bavarian beer, a meal of large portions of meat and potatoes, and an environment full of singing, tuba playing and just plain old good fun. We had the pleasure of meeting a group of American girls from new York who were studying abroad in frieburg and on their way to a second month of studying in Berlin. Shout out to them if they are reading our blog, YOLO! In addition to the beer and food, Munich is home to the largest municipal garden in Europe known as the englisch garten. The outdoors is another one of my favorite things, and this park does not disappoint, kinda looks like the shire. It is enormous and contains a small river, a Chinese tower, and it's own beer garden.

We also spent a day at the dachau concentration camp, this was a truly chilling experience. It is one thing to see museums dedicated to the holocaust, and a completely different experience to stand on the same grounds where the terrible acts occured. I could not put into words the emotions that came over me while standing in a gas chamber. Yet, I must say, it is still quite difficult to really imagine what it must have been like there between 1938 and 1945.

We decided to only spend half a day in Venice because we heard its expensive and more of a place for lovers. (No comments please, we all know that there is a serious love triangle on this trip.) we took a quick cruise down the main canal this morning and then slowly weaved our way back through the city to the port. We saw San Marco piazza which is as beautiful as in all the movies you've seen it in. The canals were also unbelievable to see in person after seeing them so many times in movies as well. I hope I can get back to venice for longer some day when I can afford to fully enjoy it.

For now, the skies are clear as Venice shrinks behind us. Hopefully the weather remains nice as way continue to Greece.

Ciao!
-The Bear

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Heading out of Munich (not the Munich blog!)

Hey all!

Munich has been non-stop fun since we arrived, hence our sporadic updates.

Here is our plan for the next few days:

Tonight: leaving from Munich on Night Train to Venice
Tomorrow: Venice until 14:00, then taking Ferry all the way from Venice to Patras Greece
Saturday: Arriving Patras, Greece around 20:00, taking bus to Port of Pireaus in Athens, Greece (a few hours away). Sleeping for a few hours in a hotel in Pireaus
Sunday Morning: Boarding Ferry to Santorini. Arriving Santorini around 15:00 and we will finally be in one place for a few days.

So you will probably hear from us in the next few days as we update about Munich, Venice, and our crazy 25-hour ferry ride across the mediterranean!

Talk to you soon!

Greg

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Quick note from Munich

Hey everyone,

So I know all of you are at work updating this page constantly to check for new blog posts. On behalf of the group, I am sorry but we are having too much fun to blog. Tomorrow night we take a night train to Venice, so in a day or two you will have proper blogs. But for now, here's a quick update.

Munich has been a blast. So much so that we decided to extend our stay another day. We've done the walkig tour, olympic park, bmw welt(showroom) and the concentration camp, Dachau. And of course, being in Bavaria we did a beer tour and have gone to multiple beer gardens.

On another note, today is the one month mark of the trip. And what an incredible month it has been. While in a city, time moves normally but looking back, the time has flown by.

There's an update for ya. More detailed blogs coming soon. See you in a month!

Monday, April 25, 2011




First, before we talk about Prague, I should tell you about how I split up the group a few days back in order to go visit my family.

Leaving Berlin, the guys headed straight for Prague while I detoured and hopped a train to Nuremberg in Eastern Germany. In a small army post about 30 minutes north of N-Berg, my cousin Lydia lives with her 6 awesome kids. I haven't seen them since they moved to Germany from The States, so I was really looking forward to it. After a day of traveling, I arrived in the small town of Vilseck and met Lyd at the station with the kids.

I had a great night visiting with everyone- and it also happened to be Lydia's birthday, so I was lucky to get sone of the celebratory dessert. After the kids went to bed, Lydia and I stayed up talking and just catching up. It was a really nice chance to see her, and a welcome break from the rigors of traveling. I went to sleep in Lydia's oldest son's room, and found a few presents waiting for me in the top bunk: dolls that made noise when touched inside the pillows and a huge plastic spider down by my feet. It was pretty hilarious.

The next day, the 7 of us took off for Nuremberg. They had all been there plenty before, but they offered to be my tour guides for a few hours. Nuremberg was such a quaint little Bavarian town, complete with open air markets, lots of grand churches and a huge castle that overlooks the whole thing. We all had a great time running up and around the castle, eating ice cream- just enjoying everything.
















When I said goodbye to everyone at the train station I was genuinely sad to see them go. I am really lucky to have such awesome family all around the world and it was so great to- even for just a day- see some of them. I can't wait for them to come visit :-)

I said goodbye, grabbed my bag and headed East toward Prague (and my two handsome travel partners).

---


Prague is one of the most naturally beautiful cities I have ever been to in my life. The story goes like this: when Hitler was planning world domination, he decided he would have a political capital in Munich, and a "cultural capital" in the city of Prague. For that reason, the city was spared the destruction that most of Europe faced, and has some of the oldest, grandest buildings on the continent as a result.

When I arrived in Prague, I made my way to the hotel where the guys were waiting for me. It was, most importantly, The Bear's 23rd birthday!! They had already picked out an amazing mexican restaurant not far from where we were in the North of the city. I ordered a burrito and enjoyed every bite... I think I miss Mexican food more than anything else at home (sorry, family). Afterwards, we went to a local Prague bowling alley nearby. This was very not-touristy, and we managed to jump on one of the four lanes that were there. Because it was Steve's birthday, Dave and I planned to let him win at bowling... Which he did quite easily.

The next morning, after absolutely stuffing our face in the included breakfast buffet, we walked down into Old Town and did another free tour, this time with a canadian girl from Vancouver. Over 3 hours or so we saw most of the sights in Prague, including the famed Charles bridge, the Jewish Quarter, powder tower, the cathedral and lots of others.

Interestingly, Hitler left the Jewish Quarter intact because he wanted it to serve as a museum of the extinct Jewish people. What an ass. Either way, his asshole-ness is our gain, because now there are two beautiful synagogues that are hundreds of years old, along with lots of other old Jewish buildings.

Mostly though, the thing to do in Prague is just walk around with your eyes open. The city is stunningly beautiful, an incredible mix of extremely old and new. The open markets at city center offer great street food and these tasty rolled dough desserts that I kept coming back for.








The following day, we conquered Prague Castle, allegedly the largest castle compound in the world. It sits up on a hill overlooking the entire town and e river, and from ground level it seriously looks like Hogwarts. We took a combination of trams to the top and then saw the sights while descending back to ground level. The most prominent feature, St. Vitus' Cathedral was started over 700 years ago and the stained glass inside is absolutely stunning. With the help of trusty old Rick, we learned about the significance of different things while just enjoying the beautiful views of the city below.





At night, we went to an American bar in town because we heard that they were playing the Capitals vs. Rangers NHL hockey playoff game. We had a great time watching the caps win the series and then topped off the night with a midnight stroll around old town and Charles Bridge. As beautiful as the city is during the day, it doesn't hold a candle to it once the sun has gone down. It is absolutely stunning.




Today was spent doing laundry and then lazily walking around the city, my favorite activity in a foreign place. Since it was Easter Sunday, the crowds were out in force and it was fun to just walk around, up and down the Charles Bridge watching the street performers, artists and musicians do their thing. Before we knew it, it was back to the train station, final food shopping and then Prague was in the rearview mirror.

And here we are, about 1.5 hours away from the Bavarian city of Munich. We have so far held down our own compartment from intruders for the past 4 hours or so by using an ingenious method of pretending we are sleeping every time people try and join us. Hah! Genius!

We are so excited for Munich, Prague was absolutely beautiful and we hear that Munich has so much to offer!

Enjoy the pictures, and then book a ticket to Prague!!!

Greg







Sunday, April 24, 2011

Prague is beautiful

With a sparkling river, patches of trees and hills throughout, orange roofs, and spires protruding all over; Prague really is gorgeous. It is the most beautiful city we've seen so far in my opinion. There is a great diversity of landscape and architecture throughout. It is the first city we've been to that has any sort of hills, which not only frames the city in the valley, but also makes for some beautiful spots to sit and admire from.

We spent our days here mostly just wandering and enjoying the citys beauty. Prague was mostly untouched by WWII because hitler had wanted to make it his cultural capital once he had conquered all of europe. He also intended to make the Jewish quarter (which we will visit today before we head to Munich) into a museum to an extinct race of people. Following WWII, Prague fell under communist rule for 30+ years. during this time, Prague was a dark and dreary place. Unable to display it's true beauty until the reign of communism was lifted.

But alas, hitler didn't win, communisum fell, and thankfully we are now free to stroll through such beautiful places as Prague castle, old town square and the Charles bridge. Locals will tell you that Prague was built to be the beauty that it is today, and it was just waiting for an opportunity to blossom. It is now one of the busiest tourist destinations for both Europeans and international visitors alike, and for good reason. If you have a chance to see Europe, make sure that Prague is on your list of cities to see. Words really do not do the sights here justice, so I will let pictures tell the story (Greg will post them soon)

-The bear

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Late thoughts on Berlin

Berlin as a city is unlike any of the cities we've been to so far and probably will be to on this trip. The most recent history we've encountered really relates to ww2 but berlin adds a whole other dimension in that it started ww2 and was the city that symbolized the cold war.

We'll start with the ww2 stuff. I have a new found respect for germany in that it's museums and memorials not only remember ww2 and the holocaust, but admit responsibility. These cites are not just tourist attractions but carefully placed archives that remind the people what happened and how they vow "never again." For instance, the holocaust memorial is called The Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe( no way for anyone to make excuses or denials with that title) and it is perposefully placed in the middle of the main area near the Brandenberg Gate and government offices as if to say, "hey people/ goverment, never again!."

That night, as steve and greg have said in their blogs, was very special due to a chance encounter with our new german friend, Yergen.

Sometimes when you least expect it, the stars align to give you an experience you can really only have when traveling. It began with a period of indecisiveness in deciding where to go for dinner. Close and cheap or subway and unknown prices as our hunger grew, that was the question. And again when we got to the restaurant there were no tables so we could have sat with a few guys at one table but took our chances and waited at the bar. A few minutes later the hostess was about to seat a couple who arrived after us but we respectively reminded her we were here first. "the table also has a man at it, if you dont want it i am giving it to the couple", she says in her german accent. Hunger had taken over so we all agreed. We sat for a while not knowing what to eat from this strange menu so when the man put his magazine away steve asked for his opinion, which ended up being the spark of it all(thanks steve).

Two hours later we had discussed politics, his love for jfk and why bush and america's actions after 9/11 with iraq lessened his respect for america. Then he really started dropping knowledge bombs. He started talking about conflicts between countries and even people and how everyone thinks their right because there is no black and white, no absolute truths, only different shades of grey. That flowed into how because of technology, so much information is being sent out that you need to take a step back to form an opinion. More was said but you get the idea. Now a lot of it we all pretty much knew already but it was the way he was speaking, the examples he was using and the fact that he was a 60 yr old german man and his perspective was one we have never heard of before. And of course you've heard the finale, he picked up our check and simultainiously as he stood up and we respectively prostested his actions he says, "it's alright, i will eat a little less tomorrow." And after we accept and shake hands he leans in slighty and says,"if you take one thing from this dinner it should be this. There are Germans today who are different from the ones your grandfathers fought against." Boom, the final knowledge bomb. All this while in the background, and i swear im not making this up was U2- Still havent found what im looking for, haha.

As the guys both said, we were left shocked and amazed. My final note on the dinner was that we talked about sport for a little and found out he's a big hockey fan, of course he is!

The rest of our time in Berlin was amazing. A very interesting experience at Cedar for passover where i sat across from a professor teaching abroad from what school, the University of Delaware of course, who interstingly enough gave steve and i reassuring thoughts on the schools we are going to next year. She said it was good for me to go somewhere new and especially for my degree, dc is will be great. And similarly to steve how Corvallis is a wonderful/beautiful area to live in if you like the outdoors(in case you havent figured out yet, steve is the bear and outdoors is kinda his thing).

On the train to Berlin i got very excited reading about what we'd be doing and now having left, it not only met my expectations but far exceeded them.

A quick note on the present. We are in Prague now and it is great. A beautiful city of mixed styles of arhitecture and buildings that date back centuries because it was one city not destroyed by the world wars. Steve and i spent his bday walking around and spending the afternoon in the park where steve took his hacky sack abilities to a new level. At night greg met up with us after his side trip to visit family and we went bowling.

Right now we are spending some time planning the rest of our trip which is so weird. 3 weeks in we finally have the dates marked till the end. We all agreed this was the way to do it. We learned so much on how to travel that booking the whole trip would have hindered us more than helped. What a trip!

More details on Prague coming soon...

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Berlin: The Newest Old City in the World




Being in Berlin today is surreal. There is no other word to describe the experience. I know of no other city in the world that has been through what Berlin has, no other city that has hosted as many real-life dramas as the ones that have unfolded just in the past century.

Berlin was decimated after world war one, rebuilt and then broken down again when the stock market crashed in '29. It was controlled by and served as the center of government of (quite possibly) the most evil regime ever to walk the earth, and was re-decimated all over again throughout the second world war. When Hitler finally fell, there was a break in conflict for about 20 minutes before it changed from The Allies vs. Hitter to Democracy vs. Communism. The city was split in two politically, and then physically, as the Berlin Wall separated forms of government, ideals, and families and friends. The city turned violent again for 40 years as the wall claimed the lives of the many who tried to escape the East. Berlin was a microcosm of the whole world, west versus east packed into one tiny division in Northern Germany. When the wall came down, Berlin was free... Finally.

The rest of the story is being written day-to-day. Modern German is barely 20 years old, it is building itself for the umpteenth time... And its incredible. Berlin reminds us that history is ongoing, we are part of it. Where else in the world can you stand on one street corner and simultaneously see Hitler's old HQ, Stalin's old government building, remnants of The Wall and people walking cheerfully about. Berlin- because of its rocky history- is a success story. Of the countless people who tried to ruin it, they all have failed. It is beautiful, it is young, and it is free.

--

We arrived 3 days ago and hit the ground running. According to everyone we talked to, we knew that there was more to do than there was time in the city.

That first day we set our sights on the first major milestone in the 20th century, the Holocaust. For each of the memorials or museums, i will split up my thoughts accordingly to make it easier to follow:


The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: from the outside of this massive memorial, you can see thousands of white pillars, each identical in length and width and differing only in their height. It's hard to explain what it looks like from afar, like a collection of rectangles that seem to flow up and down. As you enter the memorial, walking through the pillars, you realize that the ground begins to dip and the pillars rise. While the concrete barriers were only a few feet high on the edges of the square, when you are in the center the stone rises high above you, 10 feet or more. This feeling of insignificance in the presence of physical barriers is something that many of the memorials have in common (in Berlin and elsewhere in Europe as well). The architect of the memorial, an American Jew, has always refused to comment on what meaning the memorial can take on; instead he maintains that whatever it means to the individual is the correct meaning. I identified most with one possible explanation: the blocks represent a sort of measurement of anti-semitism. From the outsides they are low, sometimes peaking out from just below the surface. As you descend into the depths of the world war, the blocks rise in the same way that policies against Jews did- slow enough to almost ignore that they're rising at all. Before you know it, you are trapped in the middle, completely disoriented, lost, stuck, dominated by the stones and the intolerance of others.


Below the memorial is a small museum that personalized that holocaust. As told to us, Stalin once said "one death is a tragedy, one million is a statistic." it is very hard to internalize how man people perished in the holocaust, and this museum does a really good job of doing it. They present a select few individuals who died in concentration camps and present personal things, heirlooms, and most powerfully, last letters and notes. I got really choked up reading the last words of individuals, telling their children, parents and loved ones goodbye. I highly recommend a visit to this very moving exhibit.


Topography of Terror: a few blocks from the above memorial is the old headquarters of Hitler's SS and Gestapo. Because of the horrible things that happened inside the walls of the old building, the German government decided to leave the area as rubble after it was bombed during the war, and never rebuild it. On top of the rubble stands a brand new building housing an exhibit on the measures that Hitler and his various enforcers took in scaring the public into submission. My favorite part was a small exhibit on the trial of Adolf Eichman, which happened after the Israeli government tracked him down in hiding in South America.


That night we decided to get a recommendation of somewhere to go for dinner. Our extremely over-enthusiastic hostel receptionist absolutely insisted that we go to an authentic German restaurant, which I was less than excited for because I was already hungry and getting there involved a tram ride... But we eventually decided to try it out- and I'm very excited we did. The restaurant was quintessential Germany, a small dining room where guests of different parties dined together at small tables with a staff of about 4 or 5. After some amazing German beers at the bar, we were invited to take a seat with one older gentleman who had already been there a while. We obliged and found ourselves wedged at a tiny table with someone who probably spoke no English.

About 2 hours later, we had discussed absolutely everything with this very nice man, a German from the south who had many opinions on everything from Hitler to the new Libyan conflict. He was able to put a german perspective on so many things that I had never considered. He was extremely candid and warm with us, not hesitating to give us his true opinion. Through him we learned about the German political system- a unique structure based on the failings of WWII- as well as politics in Germany today. It was a wonderful conversation. At the end of it, our new friend Yergan made the ultimate gesture and picked up our check. It was remarkable, considering he had just met us. When he got up and left, the 3 of us just smiled for about 5 minutes before finally getting up and leaving. One of the reasons I truly love traveling.

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On the second day, we made 4 new friends. It was the first day of the jewish holiday Passover, and we decided to try and find a Seder that we could attend. We found one: an Israeli woman named Keren was hosting a big seder in the southwest part of the city that night. While we were discussing details in the lobby of our hostel, 4 girls asked us if we were talking about Passover and if they too could attend the seder.

During the day before the Seder we did a free walking tour of the city with a great guide named Taylor. He was entertaining and knowledgeable about the city and its history and we were able to learn about tons of sights downtown. The tour lasted over 3 hours and by the end of it I felt like I had a much better timeline of historical events that happened in Berlin.

We returned to the hostel later, found some Kosher (we thought) wine and headed to the Heidelberger Platz subway station to get on with the Seder. The event was held in a big building that had been donated for use for Jewish events. The Seder was big, probably 75 people, a mix of a lot of Israeli ex-pats and traveling English-speaking Jews such as ourselves. It was very informal- even compared to my family's Seders- and we were eating within about an hour of getting there. During the dinner, we met two Americans, Max and Becca, who were studying abroad in Berlin as well as Suzy, a professor from the University of Delaware on a 4-month teaching stint in Berlin.

The Seder was great, and it again felt surreal to participate in an ancient jewish tradition celebrating the liberation from oppression... in Berlin! The capital of Jewish oppression since slavery in Egypt a few thousand years ago. I kept thinking, "if we had a seder here 60 years ago, we could have been killed, and now look at us."

That night we returned to central Berlin, got some drinks on the trendy Oranienberger Strasse, and then finally headed to bed.

--

Our last day was spent at the Mauer Berlin Wall park and the Jewish museum.


Mauer: this was a park near us that recreated the conditions of Soviet entrapment via the Berlin Wall. The wall was only the most visible part of a long, thoughtful plan to keep East Berliners trapped in socialism. In reality, the system involved two walls and a large area in between, known as the "death strip," where guards shot-to-kill anyone caught trying to escape. The park, still under construction, goes to great lengths to show you what it looked like to be in East Berlin throughout that time period and was, in my opinion, very effective. Two short movies put a very human touch on the whole situation and educated us about the soviet measures.

The Jewish Museum: this museum, that daringly attempts to cover jewish history since the dawn of time, was pretty interesting. It was designed by the same guy who is designing the 9/11 memorial in NYC, and he makes pretty imaginative use of architecture to evoke lots of emotions. The building is a giant zig-zag with big open spaces, called "voids", that represent the holes in German Jewish society caused because of The Shoah. Most evocative with me was the Holocaust room, a massive stone room that was unheated and lit only by natural light coming in from a diagonal slit in the top corner of the room. Standing in there, the ceiling towering above me, I felt as Jews must have: trapped. The museum, while interesting, covered things very familiar to us (like what Shabbat is) and in that sense it was a bit redundant.



For our final night, we thought outside of the box, and hired a 6-person circular bike and pedaled around the lit city. With a backpack full of beers, we obviously were quite a sight as onlookers called out, cars honked, and cameras flashed at us rolling through town. Our onboard captain Olaf was standing atop the wall the day it came down, so he was pretty qualified to share with us Berlin historical anecdotes as we scooted along.




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At the end of the day, this is the picture I will always think about when I remember Berlin: three girls lounging happily in front of The Berlin Wall.


It failed. The Nazis tried to oppress and they were defeated. The Soviets tried to choke West Berlin into submission, and they failed. The wall was constructed to keep people in, and just look at it now.

Berliners are busy re constructing their city- again- and from here on it should serve as a living testament of the triumph of good over evil. Every person who goes to Berlin, goes out and smiles, plays hackie sack, goes to a museum or just gets some drinks with friends is, in my opinion, throwing salt on the wounds of failure of Nazis and communism.

Just feet from where Hitler once paraded through the Brandenburg gate, now there is an evil empire of an entirely different kind: Starbucks. For Berlin, it's an improvement :-)


Greg




Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Having too much fun to Blog!!!

Sorry for the delays in posts. Berlin has been AMAZING and we are very sad to leave. Dave and Steve head to Prague today while I take a one-day detour and visit my family near Nuremberg in Eastern Germany. I will be using the 5-hour train ride later today to blog, so expect lots of posts and lots of pictures sometime late today.

Talk soon!

Greg

Sunday, April 17, 2011

A great start to Berlin (cont)

We got some advice from our hostel receptionist about a good German restaurant to grab some dinner at. When we arrived at the restaurant there were no tables available, so we decided to grab a beer at the bar and wait. The hostess offered us a spot at a small table with one man already sitting there. Hungry, we decided to sit down. He was quietly reading a magazine and having a beer, while we sheepishly discussed what we'd be having. He eventually suggested a dish that consisted of pig ankle, mashed peas, sauerkraut, and potatoes. It was delicious!! After ordering, we got to talking with the man about politics in both Germany, America, and the rest of the world. Our conversation continued throughout dinner and another round of drinks, winding through all sorts of topics from travel to technology to languages to the German view of war today. Almost three hours later, our dinner paid for, we found out this man's name was Jurgen. It was an amazing dinner and even more amazing conversation, the kind that makes a trip like this worthwhile (as greg put it). In the end, Jurgen left us with this: "if you take one thing home to America with you, I hope it's that there are Germans today much better than the ones your grandfathers fought long ago."

What an amazing dinner and evening. I hope Berlin can continue to impress as much as it did on day one.

-The bear

A great start to Berlin

Today we made it to Berlin! It was a long day, starting at around 7am when we began our trek thru Copenhagen to catch the train to Berlin. Since we were unable to reserve seats for the train, we were expecting to stand for the duration of the 6 hour journey. Fortunately, we were all able to find seats...phew.

Once settled into our hostel, we headed out to get a jump on the many sights of the city. We had hoped to join a free walking tour at 4:00pm by the brandenburg gate, but the tour never happened for some reason so we made our own afternoon agenda. First, we visited the memorial to the murdered Jews. This is Berlins holocaust museum, which is made of 2700 concrete stones that have a very somber look but feel like a playground at the same time, so there are kids running all over the memorial. The museum is underground and it is very well done and very moving. The museum included some first hand
accounts of the events that occured in extermination camps, these were some of the most moving stories I have ever heard from the holocaust. We also had time to visit the topography of terror museum, an exhibit about the evils of the nazi regime built on the former site of nazi power. After seeing museums on world war II in both London and Paris, it was quite an experience to see the same topic covered by the germans. They do not want to cover anything up, mostly they seem to want the world to know that they are sorry for what happened and never wish it to happen again. This was confirmed by a wondeful German man we had the pleasure to have dinner with.

-The bear

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Already leaving Copenhagen???




It seems as if we just arrived here in Denmark (and in many ways we really have). Yesterday and today were chock full of walking around and experiencing this city.

Before I had arrived, the only things I knew about the city were that my cousin Gabby studied abroad here, and it gets really cold in the winter. When we met Christian, our danish friend who we met back in Brussels, we learned a bit about the city which was truly reinforced while we were here.

First of all, Denmark was rated (by somebody) as the "happiest country on earth" a year or two ago. We were "warned" before we arrived that if we stood on the street corner studying a map, trying to find our way, a local Dane would almost certainly come and offer to help out. This we found to be true within about 5 minutes of arriving on the train, hen a local guy jumped off of his bike to ask if we needed help finding our way.

Copenhagen is in many ways the most similar to Amsterdam; people are friendly, bikes are everywhere. It is much more spread out, though and is, unfortunately for travelers like us, verrrrry expensive. Yesterday we spent the day walking around the city. From our hostel west of the city center, we walked into the middle of Copenhagen, walking along what we learned was Europe's first all-pedestrian street. It was typical Europe, nice designer shops, stylish people walking to and fro. We made our way east all the way to the harbor, and specifically to the picturesque Nyhavn (Danish for "new harbor") where multi-colored pastel houses and restaurants surround the city's oldest working harbor. It was, as my cousin described it, the picture you see when you get a postcard from Copenhagen.

We took a great boat trip that lasted about an hour and took us through all of the winding canals that come off of the main waterway through the city. In a city founded along the water, taking a boat ride to get aquainted was a great idea: we saw the royal theatre, the opera house, the famous tower over the water, the famous (and equally as unimpressive) little mermaid statue, and countless other really nice sights.

We found an amazing middle eastern restaurant last night and treated ourselves to a great meal. We had not eaten "out" really since meeting our friend Chloe's family in Paris a week or so again. To save money we constantly cook food in kitchens at our hostels. It was a nice change of pace.

Today we woke up and headed to the central train station in order to book train tickets (more on that in a minute), and then headed down to the south of the city to tour the famous Carlsberg Brewery. It was a nice, standard brewery tour- complete with two nice glasses of beer and was a nice refuge from the cold and drizzly conditions that were outside.

Afterwards, we tackled Copenhagen's public transportation system and headed to Christiania, a very interesting place. Christiania was a military installation and barracks along the river for many years. After world war II ended, the government eventually started to move the military from that outdated base to a new one further down the river. After the military moved out, on the 4th of September 1971, a couple hundred neighbors broke down the fences and became official squatters of the abandoned military post. 40 years later, this small area still enjoys autonomous control of their community, which include the legalization of marijuana and various other laws. The neighborhood, while very unique because of its hippie inhabitants, is about what you would expect from a 40-year-old autonomous hippie commune: it's a bit of a shit hole. Like I said, one of the most unique places I have seen. I am glad we went and saw it.

After christiania, we headed back to the hostel for a great shower and getting stuff ready for tomorrow. Unfortunately they are out of seat reservations for our 5-hour trip to Berlin tomorrow, so we will most likely be riding standing up the whole time. Yay! not.

I really enjoyed being here in Denmark. This is a great part of the world, with smart, successful, good looking people who enjoy (through high taxes) great healthcare and other civil programs. I really really really want to return to Scandinavia and see Norway and Sweden as well as more of Denmark.

This also marks the northernmost point of our adventure- it's all downhill from here, and I am definitely looking forward to some nice warm weather.

Our next stop is Berlin for 3 days, which I have been looking forward to immensely. Not too long ago this was a city inaccessible to a person like me, it is a city that is still in the middle of rebuilding... I am excited to see what it is truly like. The Jewish holiday of Passover begins on Monday as well, and spending it in Berlin takes on- for me- a very special significance.

Talk to you from Deutschland!!

Greg











Danish park





Weird Danish ad urging women to breastfeed


On train here to Copenhagen




Friday, April 15, 2011

Another beautiful city

I could go on for a whole blog about Amsterdam but i would basically be repeating everything that Greg said so i wont bother. I'll describe the couchette train ride with the only other living experience i can match it with, camp. For you Ctt people out there, the couchette was like having a three person bunk bed in the regular sized tents. Cramped but cozy and a fun experience for sure. My favorite parts are when greg and i were off the train during a stop and the train starts to move so we bolt to the door. The train didn't leave for another 5 minutes but still. I also loved the moment the rail car attendant explained everything to us in a mixture of english but mostly german and we all looked at each other in utter confusion. Oh and when the police woke us up with flashlights in our eyes at 5am asking for passports, then coming back 2 hours later to test us by asking our country of origin...fun times.

Here we are in Copenhagen, a quick 2 day stop on our journey. Today we took a lovely boat tour around Center City, the main part of the city. It is fairly similar to amsterdam in how the city is built around the canals, just not as many. The city is beautiul, especially one street ( greg will post a picture), in which all the buildings face a canal and are all painted different pastel colors. One thing to note is how friendly the people are here. Within 5 minutes of us bein in the city and looking at a map, just as our boy Rick Steves said they would, a guy came up to us to see if we needed help. And the big difference with this city from others is that he didn't ask for money after! Love it. The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering around the city then taking some very needed showers. When discussig dinnernplans we realized we had been eating supermarket food( very cheap and surprisingly good just not always a full meal we're used to coming from our households) since Paris! As a treat we went to a mediteranian place and got a really great filling dinner. After sharing a 6-pack of Carlsburg in a park we ended up meeting and chatting with a bunch of people in our hostel.

I've notices an interesting part about talking with people and sharing travel stories is the moment ou go to say goodbye. Here you've spent no more than a 1/2 hour together but you get to know the person somewhat and when it comes time to say goodbye, you're really saying, "have a nice life," and it's understood by both parties. It's part of the traveler's code. I find it very interesting and awesome.

Other things i've observed here abroad... I see a lot of iphones, more often than not when i see someone on heir phone i see that beautiful white apple, go Apple! I love the way most of these cities are set up with bike lanes, for so many reasons. But what boggles my mind is seeing women biking in heels. I've heard from a lot of girls heels suck so i'm impressed. Also, it's been nice being able to communicate and get through every city with our native english but i gotta tell ya, there's definitely an aspect of traveling through europe we're missing. Now i reailze we're only 2 weeks in but hey, these are my thoughts, when they change, i'll let you know.

Hope all is well with all of you,

Dave

The Gravity of the Trip

In every great adventure, there is a point at which one realizes the true scope of their trip.

For me... It's here. In a 6-person couchette rolling through Northern Germany with 2 of my best friends. Over the past 2 weeks, we truly have gotten our sea legs under us. The first week was fast and hectic... London and Paris are large, imposing cities with pages and pages of things to do and museums to wait in line for. On top of that, we were getting used to our new way of life with everything on our backs, we were exploring our roles as individuals and as a group.

Then, suddenly, 8 days were behind us and we found ourselves in Brussels, a polar opposite of Paris or London. Small, quiet, not much to see... We had to re-figure everything out. Amsterdam came next and was more similar to Brussels... low stress, high relaxation. Throughout the second week we reinvented ourselves, learning how to deal with down-time and not constantly on an itinerary.

With both facets more or less now figured out, here we are on a 15-hour night train. The three of us boarded in Amsterdam and were happy to be alone in our couchette because we were scared to death at how tiny it is... even for just the 3 of us. Our serenity was shattered, when 20 minutes later new passengers arrived. As fate has a funny way of doing, however, we were pleasantly surprised to meet 2 Dutch girls who are psychology masters students, on their way to conduct clinical research abroad in Denmark for the next 4 months. We have gotten along great, joking with each other and laughing about how hopeless Americans are at speaking the dutch language.

I love situations like this when I travel. I am reminded of how small the world is and how similar other people truly are.

In Köln, we transitioned the cabin from sitting to sleeping areas, with 3 narrow berths on each side. It's pretty tight, but it fits 6 people well.

Now, the girls are asleep, dave is dozing, the Scottish guy who just recently joined us is out like a light, and steve and I are sitting here relaxing as we roll along, now just under 12 hours to Copenhagen.

With 6 more weeks and a dozen or so more cities to conquer, I couldn't be more excited, more confident or happier. We are in our groove. Next stop Denmark.



Thursday, April 14, 2011

AmsterPics








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Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Goodbye, Amsterdam! (pictures to follow)

I have truly enjoyed my time here in Amsterdam. The past four days have been incredible and sharply changed my views that I had on the city before arriving here.

This morning, we took a 3-hour walking tour of the city that focused on the history and the many sights of Amsterdam. Our guide, Julian (a nice australian guy) said one thing that resonated with me: "Before you came here, you probably thought of two things when you thought of Amsterdam: Drugs, and Sex. Now I hope you think of this, a bridge over a canal with hundred of bikes chained to the railings."

Amsterdams beauty is extremely natural. The canals go everywhere and because of them, narrow shop-lined streets unfold around them in almost limitless amounts of photo-ops. Everywhere you look it seems like it's a postcard. The people are very wonderful. They are nice, polite (just don't get in their way while they're on a bike)and most of all, they are tolerant. This is truly a city in which you can be yourself. Nobody is going to (or allowed to) say any differently.

With the electric trams and the thousands of bicycles, this place is a pedestrian's dream (just get out of the way when you hear anything resembling a bell). Traffic is non-existant. Seriously, there are like no cars driving around here.

Some before-and-afters:

5 days ago: I thought that with the tolerance of Marijuana, escaping the drug would be impossible and that I would be pushing stoners out of the way just to walk
Today: If you came here, not knowing that pot was legal, and not interested in trying it, I seriously doubt you would know it was here. Just don't go into any coffeeshops trying to buy a cup of coffee.

5 days ago: I thought that the red light district would be a dirty, crime-ridden and sleazy place.
Today: Well I was definitely right about the sleazy thing, but the area is actually one of the safest and prettiest parts of the city.

5 days ago: I thought that with marijuana legal, the city would be crawling with other drugs such as cocaine and LSD.
Today: According to my tour guide, Rick Steves, and others knowledgeable on the subject, by *not* enforcing laws against marijuana, police have re-distributed resources to battle other harder drugs. Currently, the rate of use of *hard* drugs is lower than the average in the rest of Europe.

5 days ago: I thought this city was two things: Marijuana and Prostitutes
Today: In reality, Amsterdam has little to do with either of these things. This is a seriously AWESOME place that I would come back to again and again. It's defined by its people and it's beauty, and I would return many times over to keep exploring.

---

Amsterdam, to me, seems like a really unique experiment that is unreplicated anywhere else in the world. A very long time ago the city forced people of different religions, colors and sexual orientations to co-exist together. It enforced tolerance, and turned a blind eye toward the restrictions so common throughout Europe against those of other faiths or sexuality.

When faced with a rising drug problem, Amsterdam had the gall to turn conventional wisdom on its head. When faced with prostitution, The city chose to take something that was happening anyway and regulate it, legalize it, tax it.

By all accounts, Amsterdam should have failed a long time ago. But it hasn't. It's working. It's beautiful. It's thriving.

I am reminded that in the earliest days of the United States, the first documents referred to the not-yet-formed-government as "The Experiment in Democracy." Experiments are good things.

Amsterdam will face problems just like the rest of the world. But if they can continue to summon unconventional solutions to these problems, I have high hopes for the city and the country as a whole. And think... one day many years from now my own son and his two buddies can giggle like schoolboys as they stroll safely through the red light district.

I'm not saying we did that. I'm just saying.


Talk soon,

Greg



p.s. Tonight we board a night train from Amsterdam up North to Copenhagan. It is something like a 15-hour trip, and we have 3 small beds in a 6-bed "couchette." It should be verrrrrrrry interesting. Let's go!

p.p.s. We have some pictures from A-Dam that we need to upload, but we're in a public library and don't have the wires. We will try to do them later before we get on the train, or tomorrow after arriving in Copenhagan.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Beautiful, Boisterous AMSTERDAM

This is truly one of the most unique cities in the world, very unlike most places that I have been. I continue to not know fully how to judge it. On the one hand, as the true safe haven for Marijuana in the world, I expected a city full of junkies and addicts with crumbling infrastructure everywhere.

What I found, though is a city who keeps its "Tolerance" policy as only part of its definition. It is a beautiful, canal-lined metropolis with huge, old buildings everywhere. Its citizens zip around on bicycle super-highways (complete with their own traffic lights), keeping the air clean and un-polluted.

It's like they somehow straddle the line between the extreme and the very-well controlled.

Another example: this is like the prostitution capital of the world, you probably know that. While none of us plan on taking advantage of this (except Dave), we had to stroll through the 'red light district' to see what we were dealing with. From all angles, women behind red tinted glass doors attempt to reel men in. If someone is interested, they walk up and start haggling. If a deal is reached, the door swings wide open and the new customer comes in. Again, it would be easy to assume this is a lawless, dirty and unregulated practice... but you would only be right on 2 out of 3. I reality, according to the guides, most women are self-employed entrepreneurs, choosing prostitution not out of necessity. They fill out paperwork, pay taxes, submit to tests and may make 500€ a night. While few would support their city legalizing things like marijuana and prostitution, I think we all realize these things happen anyway... It's worth a pause to think that maybe Amsterdam, by removing the taboo and adding regulations, may be doing it right.
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But its not all sex, drugs and rock and roll. The other day we toured Anne Frank's house, the small house in which a secret annex was built to hide Anne and 7 others during the Nazi occupation of The Netherlands. This was one of the most powerful experiences for me. To walk in the secret annex, to imagine living there with the fear of discovery... It was surreal. The story has a sad ending, unfortunately, with all but Anne's father, Otto, dying in concentration camps. The interviews with Otto were powerful as he described the conditions in which they lived and the way that life was, including after they were discovered. It was a very powerful morning, if you ever come to Amsterdam I highly recommend a visit to this sight.

This morning we made the trek (pilgrimage?) to the other staple tourist attraction: The Heineken Experience. We visited the famous beer's first brewery which has been completely converted to a tourist sight. It was okay, a little too touristy for my liking, although I didn't complain when they served us samples of their product.

Alright... Off to the grocery store to buy stuff for dinner. We are having a great time here and have 2 full days ahead of us. Talk to you soon

Greg
















Beard update!

Amsterdam...dud?

When we arrived in Amsterdam, we were immediately excited at how unique the city looks. We quickly found our hostel, which happens to be one of the top 5 hostels in Europe. It doesn't disappoint. Complete with its own bar, breakfast, a small patio, and a fantastic location. When we wandered off to explore the city though, we found that it's a bit confusing to find your way around. After watching the sun go down over a canal, we got up to try to find our way home and realized we had no idea where we were. We eventually got back to the hostel after realizing we were on the opposite side of the city than we thought we were. 

Yesterday went much more smoothly for us. We started our day with the anne frank house. This is a great look at the conditions the frank family, and some others, had to deal with for two years while they hid from the nazis. They didnt get to go outside for two years out of fear of being caught and deported. Eventually they were betrayed and their hiding spot given up. A must see museum for anyone that visits this city. 

The afternoon was very pleasant. We found the vandelpark and relaxed by a small pond along with what seemed like the entire city. There were people spread out all over sitting on blankets enjoying the sunshine. We were gonna play some hackey sack, but some locals were juggling a soccer ball and
they were MUCH better than us so we decided to not embarrass ourselves. 

This is a truly beautiful and very unique city. More adventures to come. 

Also, for Dean:






Got any other suggestions?

-The bear



Sunday, April 10, 2011

Bye bye Brussels

So here we are, literally sitting on the train in the Brussels station awaiting some movement as we start on our way to Amsterdam. Steve's to my left, in the window seat and Dave's across the aisle. We just finished a nice cheap lunch bought in the grocery store in the Brussels station. The train just stated moving and we are on our way north, across the border with the Netherlands into Amsterdam, leaving behind our third city, Brussels.

Brussels was probably the least I knew about any of the cities. The process of choosing it for our itinerary was quite simple, when we saw on a map that "Bruxxeles" was located right between Paris and Amsterdam, we said "why not?"

Brussels truly is the Baltimore to Paris and London's New York. A small, easily navigable city with less museums and big tourist attractions than its counterparts. As the capital of the European Union, the city plays host to thousands of employees from Monday-Friday. On the weekends, those areas are literal ghost towns. It reminded me of Charolotte, NC or that part of DC down by the White House that empties out after 5pm on a work day.

The center of the city, though, is gorgeous. Old cafe-lined avenues host buildings of all shapes and colors. The people are carefree and relaxed. Life is slower there. As our guide map explained, Brusseleirs dress for comfort, not fashion: "Be yourself especially if you're weird. Acting cool may work in Paris, but not in Brussels."

Within 3 hours of our first day, we had seen the "Manaken Pis," Brussels' largest tourist attraction and simultaneously the smallest statue I have ever seen; ate the amazing belgian waffles (only 1€ a pop!) and sampled some of the most delectable beer I have ever tasted, at what was once rated the 10th best bar in the world, "Moeder Lambic."

We had a great youth hostel right in the center of the city, which finally allowed us to meet some great travel buddies. As Dave alluded to in his blog, we became especially close to a Danish guy named Christian who was visiting Brussels for work during the weekend. Christian (who I aptly called "The Great Dane") accompanied us back to our new favorite bar that night, and we laughed over drinks for hours until we headed back to our dorm for some much-needed rest.

On day 2, Christian joined the three of us for a lazy Saturday. We got some breakfast at the grocery store, then walked to a nice park. We wet into an English bookstore for an hour as we picked out books for the trip, we got some free wifi and reserved hostels later down the road, and eventually left christian and headed to our new hotel in Brussels to the east of the city center. (By the way, Christian, if you're reading this, sorry we never met up, we ended up staying near our hotel for the rest of the night!)

The next few hours we had pure relaxation. All of us showered, read, and napped (in different orders). When we were finally all napped out we headed down to Place Jordan where we finally sampled what the locals call "Belgian Fries," which are just really well cooked french fries- that I believe were done in truffle oil. The guys got some hamburgers and I grabbed a falafel sandwich before grabbing the ceremonial end-of-city round. We finished the night playing cards back at the hotel before sleeping for what seemed like eternity.

And so here we are... on our way to Amsterdam for the next 4 days. Behind us, we leave a city that really surprised me. Cool, relaxed and beautiful, Brussels is definitely a city that I would return to, if only for the waffles.

Talk from 'Dam,

Greg





Waffles!


So good




The Manaken Pis





Steve doing his best impression of the statue







Us with our new friend Christian





Steve and Chris

Brussels in a blog

Brussels, in its geographical location and way of life has been a perfect stop in our journey thus far. Having spent a week in two of the busiest and liveliest cities in the world was incredible, but we needed a break. Brussels' laid back and relaxed atmosphere is wonderful. As a city, it feels like we're in Baltimore where London and Paris are like New York and Los Angeles. The city is just a little smaller and slower moving. We arrived around 10am and dropped our bags off to what was for me, my first "real" hostel. We were in a hotel in Paris and the hostel in London was crap. As we walked in to a nice lobby with computers, fooseball and a pool table, I looked to Greg for confirmation (being an experienced traveler, Greg has seen loads of hostels), "now this is a hostel," he says. 

Lots of people will tell you, don't bother with Brussels, go to Bruges. I'm sure Bruges is great but Brussels has been a fantastic two day stop. In one afternoon we did everything there is to do here. Relaxed and drank awesome varieties of beer outside of the 10th best bar in the world, very happily ( bc of the beers) saw the Mannican Pis, which is a very small but famous statue/fountain of a little boy peeing and then followed it all up with a true...Belgian waffle! 

We were feeling great but what came next was an aspect of traveling we hadn't yet experienced, we met a friend. After dinner at the hostel we were in the lobby drinking and playing fooseball when we struck up conversation with some girls (don't worry girlfriends, you three are the only girls for us, plus all other girls are ugly compared to you(brownie points!)). We quickly formed a circle when a man on his computer asked to join. The (ugly) girls soon left to go to a concert and we were left with our new friend, Christian, who asked to join us to the bar. Of course we would have welcomed anyone but from chatting with him for that time we could tell he was a great guy. We went back to the same bar from earlier and had a fantastic night. Christian is a big guy and from Denmark so finally someone was able to drink on Steve's level and because of it, the two of them got very close. So much so that by the end of the night, they each threw the other over their shoulders to see how many times they could lift them up. Conversation flowed from beers to politics to our education and work etc. It was great hearing the views of someone our age but from another country. It is definitely an aspect of getting to know the culture you can't get from museums and tourist attractions. 

Today we woke up late and were glad to see our new friend in the lobby. The four of us got breakfast and hung out in a park, then walked around the city a bit. We were in major need of showers and naps so we headed to our new hotel for the night, of course not before we exchanged numbers with Christian in hopes to meet up with him later. Whether we do or not, meeting him was great and have officially made our first friend on our journey and hope to stay in touch with him in the future. 

I sit now on the bed writing this between Steve sleeping on the floor and Greg sleeping in the bed next to me and I'm still a little in shock of this trip. We are only a week in and it seems like months have passed. So much has happened already I can't imagine what the next 7 weeks will bring. Speaking of things that have already happened, I made a big decision the other day and decided I will be going to George Mason University for grad school. After conquering Baltimore and Delaware, my eyes are now set on DC. I am relieved that this dilemma is finally over and excited for what the future holds. But for now my focus is on one thing, Europe. Hope all is well with our followers and thanks to the people who have commented, we encourage it. Next stop, Amsterdam. 

-dave



Saturday, April 9, 2011

Here in Brussels

We are here in Brussels safe. Having a great time but our Internet is spotty which explains our lack of updates.

Look for a post this evening once we get a good connection. Lots of funny Belgian stuff to share!

Greg

Friday, April 8, 2011

Au Revoir!

Before I finish up on Paris, sone random thoughts on France:

1. 2 nights ago we headed to the Jewish Quarter of France, where we had some of the best falafel I have ever had. It was such a cool place, seeing Jews walk about the streets, heading to and from services. I was able to converse with the falafel guys in broken hebrew and even found that the one man whom I talked to was born in a village not far from my family's in Israel! Very cool. I cant wait to return to this area and participate in the future.

2. The army museum, that depicted the first and second world wars from a french perspective was a very interesting take on historical events. As it has been said before, every story has three sides: yours, mine, and the truth. That's how I felt when I walked through the museum. While the French presented the facts, they also provided a strong slant to indicate the benefits the french presented- even while they were completely occupied by Nazi Germany.



Okay... Now today.

Today we woke up and headed to the beautiful palace of Versailles in southwestern Paris. We followed our fearless leader: Rick Steves, and learned an amazing amount about the chateau and the French monarchy in general. We seriously feel like we owe Rick Steves a lot of money since we have gains so much knowledge by following his free tours. Versailles was established by Louis XIV when he moved the Royal Palace from Paris (where the louvre currently is) to Versailles. Louis was the man, he viewed himself as the divine ruler of France, referring to himself as the "Sun-God" who brought all necessities to his people. He established versailles as a huge monument to the power of the French monarchy- the strongest country in the world at the time- and spared no expense. The palace grounds is on an 8-mile axis and is completely incomprehensible. The gardens seemingly go on forever and the palace is just incredible. Through the audio guide we learned of the significance of the different parts of the palace, learning about the the three rulers who occupied Versailles before the final one, Louis XVI, was overthrown and executed in the French revolution. The palace is, according to Rick, a temple to Man, not God... Which is what makes it so unique and interesting.

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Paris has been an amazing stop for me over the past for days. Whether it is never having been here, or the constant influence from my french-speaking girlfriend, Paris has always been that big famous city that I had yet to visit. 2 years ago, when I visited Jenna in Nice in the south of France, I came with a ignorant stereotype of French culture and left with a newfound appreciation for the country and its beautiful sights. 2 years later, as I leave Paris, a similar transformation has happened. Parisians are unique individuals, prideful folk who are almost comical with their bluntness and up-front attitudes. Similar to London, they say what they mean and they mean what they say; and I for one really appreciate that.

We spent our last night sipping on wine and eating banana crepes on the lawn in front of Sacre Coeur, the huge temple we visited on day one. We sat and watched the lights of the city come out as the sun went down. It was a fitting end to our four days in Paris.



As we leave for Brussels tomorrow, I am reminded of how different Europe is. In the US, you can hop in a plane, fly three hours, and observe small cultural changes between states. In Europe, the slope is steeper: a few hours in any direction leads to large-scale changes in language and culture. As our world becomes more and more globalized, some will argue that these changes will become smaller. People will tell you that is is a terrible thing. I truly believe that as this inevitably occurs, the differences, while more minute will be all the more important. I can't wait to see what differences lie 2 hours to the North, across the Belgium border, in the city of Brussels.

See you in a month, France.


Ps. For those who have commented, Thanks! We really love hearing from you and many of you have influenced our daily itineraries with your city-specific suggestions. Thanks a lot.






Versailles as viewed from the palace






Tree lined path in Versailles










Hall of mirrors (where treaty of versailles was signed)






Thursday, April 7, 2011

Louis Louis, oh no, we must go now

We decided to spend our last day in Paris at Europe's largest palace,
Versailles.  It was built for king Louis xiv at the end of the 1600s,
and it is monstrous.  The palace served as home to louis xiv, louis
xv, and louis xvi before the French people over threw the kings and
put Napoleon in charge.  After about a 30 minute ride on paris's RER
we arrived in the town of Versailles, a few minutes later we were
looking up a wide avenue at a mansion trimmed in gold, with a big gold
gate, and a large statue of louis xiv on horseback out front. At the
advice of our trips spiritual leader, Rick Steve's, we decided to go
around to the back to see the gardens and smaller palaces first. Thats
right, smaller palaceS. The gardens have an 8 mile cross section and
take over 40 minutes to walk across. There are marble statues and 300
fountains/ponds on the palace grounds, which pales in comparison to
the 1500 that were once here. While the palace was inhabited by king
Louis the fountains were only turned on when he walked past, at least
he was energy conscious.

We explored the smaller palaces, or trianons, first which was where
the french kings and queens came to escape the bothers of their main
palace, no wonder the french revolted.    After a 30 minute walk back
to the main palace we took a brief break to rest. We found ourselves
next to a group of French school kids who amused themselves by
taunting Greg with some English curse words. One girl would say "fuck
you" in a shy French accent to see if he would respond, but of course
she only got a chuckle out of him.

In the main palace we followed Rick's self guided tour on our iPhones.
This was once again a great tour to follow, providing much of the
history that went along with each of the large ornate rooms. Louis xiv
built this palace as a monument to himself, and boy did he honor
himself well. Complete with a kings wing, queens wing, and the famous
room of mirrors. The last of which is a large hallway with many
mirrors, chandeliers, and windows looking out on the massive palace
grounds. this room is also where the allies and Germany came to sign
the shortly lived treaty of versailles following world war I. Much of
the furniture and decor within the palace are replicas because the
french people destroyed much of the originals during the French
revolution, which led to napoleons reign as emperor of France.

It was a day of interesting history and amazement at the self
indulgence of the great french kings. Tonightwe're gonna close out
our tour of Paris with some wine and walking around the famous artist
neighborhood of monmarte.

-The bear